How to paint the exterior of your house easily

  Painting the outside of your house by yourself can seem like a lot of work and to big of a commitment. In reality it is not that hard of a job and can be done in a pretty short period of time by yourself or with a buddy. Follow these steps and make the process a bit smoother.

  Unlike painting the interior of your home, painting the exterior of your house is restricted by climate, temperature and moisture. The best time to paint is the summer or spring when you have a nice stretch of dry, warm weather extending fort least the next couple of months. Outside of that perfect time, you'll need to be aware of how far you can be stretch the painting season. With the new paints available, some premium paints can be applied in temperatures as low as 40 degrees F.

  For picking the color of your house you should choose at least two different colors (A field color and a trim color). Consider the colors of the houses adjacent to you.  You don't want to be all painted the same color. It's hard to picture what your house will look like from scratch go to the hardware store and look at the gallery of different colors. Also determine if you want to use a satin or flat finish.

  Don't think your going to be able to paint your house in a couple days.  Consider each side of your house a project by itself that will take some time.  Consider getting a paint sprayer instead of a roller to help speed up the process.

 

  Before painting your house you should give it a cleaning to remove any excess dirt.  This can be done by hand or with a pressure washer.  A faster method is to use a hose to spray all the sides of your house clean.  This won't clean it as well but will save a lot of time.  You should also remove any planters or anything else that may get in your way while painting.

  The hardest part of painting your house is scraping the old paint off.  This is best done through multiple methods.  A heat gun helps remove paint quickly with a scraper without causing any damage.  You can also use an oscillating tool with a scraper attached to remove paint faster although its harder to not cause any damage using this.  The Bosch Multi-X 3.0 fitted with a scraper is a great oscillating tool to remove paint fast.

  After all the loose paint is scraped off, you will need to paint the house with primer before you apply the paint. If you'de like to speed up the process you can use a self priming paint instead of using primer and then paint.  You should still apply two solid coats.

  Contrary to what some people believe you do not need a paint sprayer to paint the whole exterior of you're house.  In fact painting with a brush or roller is cheaper because the sprayer is requires more paint while a roller conserves the paint much better.  While there are benefits to using a roller, using a paint sprayer will be a lot faster.  If you use a paint sprayer use an airless gun that draws paint directly from the paint can. The Graco Magnum X5 airless paint sprayer is a excellent paint sprayer.  It retails at $300-400.

  When painting, wipe any excess dripping paint of your roller or brush before applying paint.  Try to keep your strokes in the same direction up and down.  Applying to much paint to one spot can cause deep brush marks.  Do your best to apply an equal amount of paint throughout.  The roller is great for large open spaces but in corners and crevices you will need to use a brush.

  The trim should be the last area you paint after you are finished with everything else.  You should apply painters tape to the edges before painting so as not to drip anything on the other color paint.  If you drip any you can always go over it later. 

  It may take some time and commitment but overall it is not an insurmountable task to paint your house by yourself.  It can be done without any painting experience or skill and you might even have some fun painting your house yourself.  If you don't enjoy painting just think of all the money you will save by not having to pay a bunch of money to some guys to come spray paint on your house.

How to easily replace an electrical plug

After a few years, an electrical cord plug may get worn out from heat, bent out from being pulled out of the wall or it may even get cut in half from a lawnmower, a hedge trimmer or something else. Some people may throw away the item with the damaged cord thinking that there was nothing more to be done with it. However, fixing an electrical cord plug is a very simple, cheap process that takes very little time and patience. (Which is good because I have neither).

Step 1:
Buy a plug of the same amperage.  If it was a grounded plug make sure the one you buy is as well.

Step 2:
Using wire cutters cut the cord about an inch from the broken plug. Strip off the casing to expose the 2 or 3 wires.

Step 3  Inspect the old plug, if it had two prongs and they are identical in size, then you may connect either wire to the connectors in the new plug.
 If the old plug had different size prongs or a grounding prong, then you must match the hot, neutral and ground (if present) wires from the power cord to the proper connectors in the new plug. While it should still run regardless of how you connect them, the safety of the device may be compromised if you fail to properly match the hot wire to the narrow prong on the new plug. The wide prong is always neutral and so the neutral wire should be connected to it. In the USA the wires are typically color coded,  white is usually neutral, black or red is hot and green is ground. If you can't determine which wire is which, refer to the old plug. Match up the power cord with the old plug and follow the wire that leads to the narrow prong. You may also test the device with ohm meter to find which wire connects to the switch (the hot should connect to the switch).

Step 4:
Pull the wires through the back of the plug and pull them through to the front. Once you have the plug semi-assembled, cut off any excess wire that wont be needed. Excess wire may make reassembly difficult or may result in wires that are protruding from the plug.

Step 5:
Using a wire stripper, strip off roughly 1/2 inch of insulation to expose the metal wire.

Step 6:
Connect the hot wire to the narrow blade prong, the neutral wire to the wide blade prong and the ground wire to the rounded blade prong. If there is no ground just do the hot and neutral wire.

Step 7:
Make a little loop with the and place it clockwise under the screw terminal so that when the screw is tightened it will draw the wire in rather than push it out. Now tighten down the screw. Repeat for each wire.  Now you're done and if you did it correctly the plug is as good as new.

Basics for building your own bar for cheap

This post covers some very basic steps for constructing your own bar that is not secured to the floor.  I will cover more about building bars in further posts.

These steps will cover a bar built to the height of 42" and the width of 84".  If you would like a different size modify accordingly.  The total cost of everything should be under $200 if you don't make a floor.

Things you'll need
-Circular saw
-Table Saw
-Hammer
-Nails
-2"x4"s
-MDF-Medium-density fiberboard (or whatever you want to use for the front and side panels)
-Bartop (Can buy a bartop, use an old headboard and footboard from a bed stained a nice color or use any number of other things that are thick enough)

Step 1: Construct the Side Frames

Each of the two side panels is constructed from two short and two long boards. Using a circular saw cut four 2" x 4" boards to lengths of 42". Next, cut four 2" x 4" boards to lengths of 15". Place the shorter boards inside the longer ones to form the rectangular frame. Secure the boards with nails.
          

Step 2: Construct Front Frame

Using the circular saw cut two 2" x 4" boards to lengths of 42". Next, cut two 2" x 4" boards to lengths of 84" each. Place the shorter boards inside the longer ones to form the rectangular frame. Again, secure the boards with nails.

Step 3: Cut Front and Side Panels

Use a table saw to cut two pieces of MDF(Medium-density fiberboard) to fit over the side panels. Next, cut (or have cut by your local hardware store) one large piece of MDF to fit over the front panel.  Apply glue to the edges of the front and side MDF panels and nail it to the frames with nails.

Step 4: Assemble Bar

The side panels will connect to the front panel via two 4" x 4" posts. Cut two 4" x 4" posts to lengths of 42". Position one side panel and the front panel at a 45-degree angle with one post at the intersection. Toenail the pieces together to form one bar corner. Repeat with the remaining corner.

Step 5: Construct Bartop

Cut whatever you are using for your bartop to dimensions slightly larger than the bar to allow for overhang or if you're buying a bartop make sure its the correct dimensions. Apply glue to the underside of the bartop and fasten to the front and side panels with nails. You can toenail the nails into the bartop from underneath. Just make sure no nails come through the top of the bar and make sure you put some nails through the posts into the bar also.

Step 6: Finishing bar
Finish and then stain your bar top to your desired color. Consider adding a large piece of beadboard to the front panel of your bar to make it look nice. 

How to replace a bathroom sink

Bathroom Sink Replacement 101

After years of use bathroom sinks often become chipped, stained or scratched. You may want to install a new sink to enhance the look of your bathroom and create a clean, new look. Replacing a bathroom washbasin may take some time, but it is not difficult to accomplish, and could revitalize the entire bathroom.

Step 1:

Measure the dimensions of your old bathroom sink with a measuring tape. When installing a new sink, you need one that will fit in the old countertop. Be sure to take accurate measurements. Write down the length, depth and width of the sink. Also write down the length and width of the countertop.

Step 2:

Buy a new washbasin. When buying your new washbasin bring the measurements of the old sink and countertop with you to make sure you purchase the right size before putting in a bathroom sink

Step 3:

Turn off the water to the sink. The shut off handle is most often located under the sink. When replacing a bathroom washbasin, you want to test the faucets to make sure the water is completely off



Step 4:

Place a bucket underneath the P-trap  When installing a new sink, you will first have to remove the drainage pipe .

• Loosen the bolts that attach the P-trap to the bottom of the sink using channel lock pliers.
• Hang the P-trap over the bucket,  pulling it, carefully, from the sink.

        

Step 5:
Un-fasten the cold and hot water hoses from the faucet with a crescent wrench. You will have to get under the sink to remove the hardware.  It is not difficult but may take a few minutes.

Step 6:

With a screwdriver remove the clips underneath the sink that attach it to the countertop .

Step 7:

Using a utility knife, cut out any sealant or putty between the countertop and the sink



Step 8:

Lift out the old sink from the counter. You will need a smooth surface for your new sink, so clean the countertop off, removing any residual silicon.



Step 9:

If you plan to use the faucet and drain from the old sink remove it now.

Step 10:

Install the old drain and faucet on the new sink. To install a new sink, you need to seal the hardware. Make sure to apply a bead of silicone caulk to the faucet and drain base before putting them into your new sink. If you bought a new faucet instead of using the old one, follow the directions that came with the new one.

Step 11:

Apply silicone caulk to the underside of the washbasin's rim before putting in a bathroom sink. Carefully lower the sink into the hole in the countertop. Firmly push the washbasin into place and wipe off any excess silicone with a paper towel.

Step 12:

Attach the sink to the countertop with fastener clips from beneath the counter. You will need to make sure it is secure.





Step 13:

Using the crescent wrench reconnect the water lines. Then reconnect the P-trap underneath the sink with channel lock pliers.  Tighten the valves but make sure they are not too tight.

• Turn the water valves back on. Keep the bucket under the P-trap while you test the sink for any leaks. Sometimes, putting in a bathroom sink will creates water leakage.
• Twist on the hot water and then the cold water. If there is a leak, shut off the water and re-install the connections. Than wrap plumber's tape around the stem of the hose to stop the leaks.





Step 14:

Let the bathroom sink sit overnight.  That's it you're done!



Buy Bathroom Sinks

How to replace an electrical outlet

Replacing an outlet is a pretty simple, straightforward process. It's also one of the few electrical jobs that, in most cases, does not require you to obtain a permit. However, before proceeding, be sure you know some basics of house wiring.
Observe all safety precautions. Electricity can be lethal. Make sure the area you are working in is dry and be 100% sure the electricity has been turned off before you start. To be safe use a current tester to verify there is no residual electricity left in the wires.
 
Step 1: Turn off both the branch circuit and the main power at the service panel. Use a flashlight and the natural sunlight to see what you are doing.

 

 



Step 2: Remove the plate and the outlet mounting screws.
Step 3: Pull the outlet with wires still attached out of the junction box.
Step 4: Note the color of the wires and identify the hot, neutral ground and device ground. Generally white is neutral and black is the hot. Look at the wiring connected to the electrical outlet. The wire connected to the smaller side of the socket should always be the hot wire. The wire connecting to the larger rectangular side of the socket should correspond to neutral.
Step 5: Unscrew the terminal screws that attach the wires to the outlet and remove the wire. Start with the hot, then the neutral and lastly the ground.
Step 6: Look at the new outlet. Identify which wire connects to which terminal. It does not matter which set of vertical screws you attach the wire to. If the outlet does not have markings indicating the polarity, then remember: The bright brass screw connects to your hot wire.
Step 7: Use needle nose pliers to connect the ground to the green terminal on the bottom of the outlet. Next connect the white wire to the neutral terminal and finally the hot wire. The wire should be wrapped completely around the terminal screws.
Step 8: Finally, tuck the wires back in the junction box and mount the outlet and the outlet plate.

NOTE: Make sure the outlet is rated for the amperage of the circuit. Do not use an outlet rated at 15 amps on a 20 amp circuit.

 

 

It is possible to change an outlet with the electricity still on but I would HIGHLY recommend against this.  The only reason to do this would be if you don't have access to your electrical box and cant shut off the electricity.  IF YOU DO THIS NEVER EVER LET THE EXPOSED PART OF THE LIVE WIRES TOUCH YOU MAY DIE! There are also other precautions you must take inquire with an electrician (although they will most likely tell you do not attempt to change outlet with live wires)  before attempting this. 

 

How to get ready to paint your house

Step 1:             

Estimate the amount of paint you'll need. Its better to buy to little than to much, you can always go back to the store and get more if you run out. Each brand of paint should explain how much it will cover.

Step 2:            

Purchase high quality paint. You generally get what you pay for - its better to get good paint you know will last a long time than some cheap paint that's going to peel in a couple years.

Step 3:             

Get good, sturdy ladders. (You'll be on them a lot). Make sure they're tall enough - you don't want to be standing on the highest step with a bucket of paint.

Step 4:             

Purchase good brushes and rollers; ones used for exteriors are generally less delicately built and shaped than those used for interior of a house.

Step 5:             

Purchase plenty of sandpaper, scrapers, exterior-grade putty, and exterior-grade caulk.

Step 6:             

Buy a lot of masking tape and drop cloths to protect walkways, driveways and your neighbor's property. Cover your driveway its better to be safe than sorry. (I once dropped a bucket of paint onto my now ex-wife's driveway)

Step 7:              

Consider using alkyd (such as oil-based) paint for exterior woodwork. It dries slowly and is a little harder to use, but it's also a lot tougher. Use it especially on areas that get a lot of wear, such as doors and their trim, banisters, and porches.